Bangkok and Pattaya still waiting for tourists

Back in Pattaya again. What a one-track town! But where are the foreign visitors?

Thai travel agents revealed last week that based on what they have seen, tourist visits are only 80% of what they were in past years and last year was horrible.

This is the high season, verging on the peak in maybe 5-10 days. But the key beer bar streets of soi’s 6, 7 and 8 are virtually empty. I have seen the customer-free bars with my own eyes and resident friends have seen them too.

Last night on the lengthy go-go bar strip, Walking Street, it was mildly busy as we toured some establishments from 8 pm to 11 pm. We did one-beer visits of Alcatraz and Misty’s.  A big surprise was the emptiness of  star-power Angel Witch, but we were there before the first show at 10 o’clock. There were maybe fewer than 10 customers in the show amphitheatre.

Except for Angel Witch, the talent levels were low to average.  We lasted two drinks at AW,  thanks to some friendly staff.

The clear talent leader though was our fourth target, Baccara. The place was packed at 10 and a good marker for the high talent level was the Japanese, constituting maybe one-quarter of the onlookers. No wonder. Many stunning girls on stage both downstairs and upstairs.

The revelation for me and the others was that there was an upstairs and for most of us, the preferable venue. There’s very comfortable armchairs for you to curl up in with a companion. The girls downstairs were class A, with the ones upstairs ranked at B+ - A-. Tremendous place and not overpriced, compared with Bangkok’s rather pretentious prices of 150 baht a beer  on Soi Cowboy. Now Baccara is not cheap but the drinks were around 100 baht, whereas in Cowboy there 130 and up.

Baccara aside, though, no one was doing good business. Misty’s, Angel Witch, with their off-Walking Street addresses but well known brands, were nearly empty. Alcatraz, because it’s brand new and on Walking Street, was doing a little better.

The point of all this though is to say that there’s no mounting evidence of a high season, although young vacationing men are showing up. There were a few hundred gawking and picture-taking tourists, including non-Thai families with kids in tow at midnight on Walking Street, and the usual collection of freelance girls and ladyboys and then the expat residents (although many do not go to the area because of the congestion and general craziness), and as always the hawkers of flashlights with “girlie” images, tribal tinkets and 69-baht a draft come-ons for hidden go-go’s.

But I remember Walking Street and nearby soi's three years ago as being virtually impassable, as it was so packed with “buyers”  and “sellers”.

Bangkok has been no better. There is little evidence of more foreigners on the streets than the usual expat residents. Few in the bar areas, too. On a recent 2-for-1 Wednesday at the Londoner, there was virtually no overflow crowd outside the doors where the smokers usually gather. I remember in the past seeing the stairway packed with students and expat residents and tourists. Soi Cowboy, which seems to be on a bit of decline for various reasons, was easily walkable last  Friday night.

Next week may tell the tale as more tourists are expected after Dec. 15, typical of winter origin  travellers. But many friends and acquaintances have noticed how empty the two cities seem  compared to highlight years.

When I arrived without a reservation in Pattaya, it was easy to get a room and lots of choice around the busy intersection of soi’s Diana and LK Metro. My room in a very nice guesthouse on LK Metro was 800 baht. That was the standard room; medium and larger rooms were available at 1200 and up in Keerati Home Stay.

Why are there few signs of a tourist upsurge? Thailand, while a brand name destination and top of mind for many European travellers, has some problems. News readers in North America and Europe are remembering last spring’s uprising and riot deaths, as well as the devastating flood that destroyed crops and caused many deaths in the north and south of the country. There are some saying yet another coup is simmering. While the world economy shows some signs here and there of improving, workers are staying home to preserve their jobs and finances. Maybe the biggest reason for the lack of tourists is the strength of the Thai baht, which is overwhelming European and North America currencies and impacting travellers -- and resident expats alike.

It will be interesting to see whether, no matter what happens this peak travel season, Thailand’s  economic  growth trend is just a short cycle or one to bet on for the future. If there are more encouraging economic signs, maybe Thailand will have another lure for travellers, these ones bringing hands-full of investment cash. It seems to be happening. But what will this do to prices in a country that used to be known for its cheap transportation, food, accommodation and services. Already local expats are considering leaving inflationary Bangkok. Are potential tourists striking off Thailand?

Comments

[Siam.Rick]

1.

Martyn, I will be staying out of Pattaya till well after New Year's.

Say, aren't you headed this way around that time? Keep in touch.

[Siam.Rick]

2.

Talen, as I was leaving Pattaya today, we stopped in at a beer bar for a Lipo and soda. The bartender said no customers, they go to Philippines not Thailand. "Money too much" here. Still, as you say, you will probably have too many visitors for your liking. And I did notice a lot of young guys in town so the outter reaches might be a better bet. Then again, you're a girl magnet!

[Martyn]

3.

Rick I can remember years back when crossing 2nd Road at Christmas was a nightmare you didn't want to be in. I haven't spent Xmas in Pattaya for a few years now but it is bound to have its 'Two Week Terrorists' arrive soon. There's plenty of Brits who save all year for their annual pilgrimage to Pattaya and they'll be showing up soon. Maybe it won't be like the good old days but Pattaya should have a Christmas buzz landing at Suvarnabhumi over the next ten days. It's the other 50 weeks of the year Pattya has to worry about.

[Talen]

4.

Rick, excellent on the ground stuff. Last years high season was less than high and with the economy still down and weather being bad in many places it doesn't look like this years high season will fare much better.

Still too many in town for my likes. The two weeks before New Years will definitely see an upswing in travelers and me hiding away in the lesser known spots.

[Siam.Rick]

5.

Matt,

Thanks for note. We're neighbours! I tried to reply to your email but gmail says it doesn't exist. Give me something to work with ;-) You can go to my about page and click email link and send me your reply.

[fontok69]

6.

Funny...
I am just staying just down the block from you at the Pasadena Lodge. Will be here until Sunday AM, then back to BKK for one more shot at the car show.

Good nightlife report. I haven't been going out, though, as I'm under the weather, and have a gal here.

Had a pizza at the restaurant next to Keerati Home Stay last night. IMHO, Not bad pizza.

If you are still here, send me an e-mail, I'll happily buy you a beer tonight. Strong baht, or no strong baht!
matt