Thanks to all the wonderful Thai people who helped

I was sitting outside   of the Windsor Hotel in Nakhon Phanom on my second morning. There was a comfortable bench where I could watch the town coming to life. More like I was. I had a cup of Nescafe (the taste of it now almost makes me gag) in hand. I decided that if I was going to find a real coffee and had no idea how long it would take, I decided to start with some caffeine in the system.

I had my big Canon DSLR and was taking some shots of “interesting” people -- okay, girls -- walking and riding by, as well as some local scenery. One of the cleaning ladies came out to chat. She spoke very good English and turns out she’d worked for an American NGO for 10 years. Some of her sentences had no trace of Thai accent. Earlier I’d asked her if there was a place to get good noodle soup (baa mee naam). We’d agreed earlier there was not a chance I was goig to go to the big empty restaurant next door. I never saw a single customer in it during my stay. She admitted she got sick there once and never went back.

She pointed to a good kitchen across the street and insisted on taking me there so she could order for me, after asking in English what I liked. So she did. Everything went smoothly. The food indeed was good and she gave me some background on the place. The owner once thought of moving her food business to much bigger Khon Kaen to make more money. The cleaning lady said she’d helped talk the woman out of it.

I tell this story to make a point about the helpfulness of the many Thai people during my two-week tour of northeastern Thailand. I wanted to write something positive about every day events in my life as a foreign visitor. I get tired of reading all the  whining and complaining on a certain big expat Thailand forum. Especially when I’ve had mostly very good experiences with so many local people.

More examples from the beginning of my tour. A salute to:

• Khun Ann, the girlfriend of a Danish friend, who told me a lot about her hometown of Ubon Ratchathani and which hotels were good in terms of ambiance and location.
•   The SRT security man at Hua Lamphong railway station in Bangkok who took me to the proper platform and put me on the right train and car after being informed incorrectly by the ticketing office which platform my train to Ubon would leave from.
• The SRT canteen lady in the overnight train to Ubon who, when asked if I could buy a shot of whisky (bottles only), offered a whisky and Coke from her co-worker’s (yeah, right) stash behind the counter. 
• The cleaning lady at the Ratchathani Hotel who not only found my iPhone recharging cable but two long-sleeved shirts I’d left behind and kept them in case I called back to the hotel. I’d actually changed hotels after two nights there and did indeed walk back to see if my cable could be found. The shirts were a surprise bonus.
•  The owner of the Phadaeng Mansion in Ubon, where I’d moved, for including so many nice touches in his new hotel such as balcony with sink and clothes drying racks, and ceiling fan as well as air-con. Not so common. Second, making sure to ask me how the restaurant food was that he sent me to. Turns out it was his eatery and it was very good and a lovely setting. And last, flying the Canadian flag at the entrance because he’s in love with a brochure of British Columbia. Sniff . . .
•  The food vendor on the busy Chayangkul Road in Ubon who,  seeing me fumble with a street map to see how close I was to the bus station, came running out. I was able to say bus station in Thai and she immediately pointed farther up the road and that I’d got off the No. 11 too early. She flagged down a No. 10 and told the driver where I was going. I gave her a sawutdee krap and wai.
• To the two poor high school girls who tried so hard to discern where this stupid farang was going (Ying Charoen Parhk, a mall) but couldn't understand my Thai. I now can say it perfectly but got the wrong tone on the first word (high falling tone, dammit).
• The two No. 10 baht bus passengers who guided me to the bus station stop, both got off and one took me directly to the correct ticket window and ordered one ticket to Nakhon Phanom at the time I wanted. He was an elderly man who spoke some English.  Since he was older, I waied him and said cop khun krap and sawutdee krap.
•  The No. 11 city bus driver. Ticket in hand, I got on a No. 11 and noticed we headed north instead of going south back into Ubon’s core. After a kilometre, I got out and pointed the other way. No he said, so he honked his horn as an inbound No. 11 was coming by. The driver smiled and held up traffic waiting for me as I dodged four or six lanes of traffic to get to the other side. You pay at your destination but the first driver smiled and waved me away.
• The intercity bus attendant  at Ubon who reorganized the cargo bay for my big backpack, knowing I was headed for Nakhon Phanom. Then at the rest stop at Mukdahan where I dashed out for a cig, kept watch over me and made sure the bus didn’t  leave me behind.
• The three ladies in the night food market of Nakhon Phanom who had a serious dialogue about what it was I wanted and decided it must be that wonderful thick Thai coffee and Carnation on ice. I had a brain cramp and forgot the Thai for cold coffee,  cafe yen. All I could think of was cafe ron (hot coffee).

And there were more, I’m sure, but the incidents escape me. I noticed many of my examples were from Ubon Ratchathani, which I seemed to be pretty hard on in an earlier report. I may have to eat my words, if not now, then some day soon.

Comments

[Siam.Rick]

1.

Sorry so late to reply. Very busy at work now . . .

Looking back on my visit to NP, I realized that the friendliness was a key factor in how positively I felt about the area. It did almost seem over the top, but that's just because the relatively severe lack of engagement I'm used to here in the west. When I think of the even worse atmosphere here at the office, I want to go back to Isaan so bad!

Hope to catch a "coffee or three" with you in late September or October.

[Catherine]

2.

I don't spend enough time in the countryside to know the difference. But I believe that since I avoid most high tourist type areas, the people I meet are more generous than not.

But I guess I'll just have to sample the countryside to see for myself (it's been awhile).

[Talen]

3.

It really is amazing how friendly the folk of Issan are. Nakhon Phanom and Mukdahan are almost too friendly. I get stopped at random all the time to talk about everything from fishing to speaking English.

I am really hoping to be installed as you say by August and nothing would be nicer than meeting friends in Nakhon Phanom for a drink...

[Siam.Rick]

4.

As I wrote this, Catherine, I realized how little of this occurs in Bangkok and how much I treasure these kinds of interactions. Also, I like the quiet and, as you know, BKK is not.

Still, when I return it will be to BKK, and from there I will make more forays into the countryside and maybe I'll find a real place to live, or at least try them on for a while.

[Catherine]

5.

Rick, what a fabulous idea for a post. And your reception from Thai people is exactly why I love living here. A little warmth and a smile go a long way. Assistance, even further.

[Siam.Rick]

6.

I think I have to agree, Martyn. I have one more place to check out, namely Chiang Rai, but I can't get Nakhon Phanom out of my mind so I have to go back and maybe stay there for a few days, or even weeks. I like to have options and being near the Lao and Cambo borders gives me some comfort. Also, Udon and Ubon are not too far away.

Unfortunately, I have to work through August, at least. So won't be back for a while. Fortunately, by then I should be retired. At about the same time, Talen should be installed in Nakhon Phanom. And you'll be in Udon? We can form the Isaan Blogging Network ;-)

[Martyn]

7.

Rick I'm guessing you have really warmed to the Isaan people and I've a feeling you're starting to view it as the best region in Thailand. Going back to the frenetic pace of Bangkok life ain't going to be easy after the welcome you've received in the northeast. Perhaps you should pitch up in Isaan for a little while longer.