Behind the Noodle Curtain

Money growing on trees a common sight in Thailand

Thai people like to show their appreciation of their local temple and the staff of this Washington Square-soi 22 bar are no different.

One of the girls explained that her temple in Samut Sakhon is “ree-wey smaww, and poo-ah” -- translation, small and poor -- but they think the world of it and wanted to show their appreciation. So they put up a money tree in the bar.

As you can see all the 20 baht (green), 50 baht (blue)  and a few generous 100 baht notes (light red), the tree is well on its way to looking prosperous. The individual notes, like my donation, was immediately attached to split  bamboo sticks, trimmed in  colourful paper, and inserted into the “trunk” of bamboo strands.  Staff from a bar across the street brought over a fistful of “note branches” while I was there.

The tree symbolizes the gifts to monks down through the centuries when locals gave gifts of old and new cloth and other necessities of the ascetic life of the temple monks. Now, of course, Buddhists simply give money. Communities will hold festival parades to ceremoniously present the money trees to the temple.

Festivities in West, life goes on in East

In the West, where various religious and family celebrations are about to start, it's about 1:30 in the afternoon of Christmas Eve. People have begun  to drink and eat themselves around town. The weather? It's snowing profusely, in many parts of Canada, with some rain thrown in in eastern Canada, according to reports.

Here in the Far East, a bunch of us Westerners celebrated simply by eating and drinking our way from one bar to another, starting in the afternoon of Christmas Eve. Of course, the bars were participants in Christmas because the owners are often foreigners, who usually set up a nice feed, decorations and happy hour drinks. Really had to pace yourself. The weather? Sunny, warm and no threat of precipitation.

It's now early Christmas morning and time to hit the sack because, well, our home bar is throwing us a party of massive quantities of food later today. A gift to its core regulars. Customers will pay almost 1300 baht (about $45 Cdn) for the sumptuous meal. See the menu here.

So, however you celebrate this time of year, or maybe you don't celebrate anything at all, other than the joy of life, take the time to enjoy whatever you're doing and forget about, well, stuff.

Loy Kratong celebrated in colourful style on Chao Phraya

What a sight to see thousands and thousands of Thai's launch their kratongs into the waters of the  Chao Phraya, the main waterway through the city of Bangkok Wednesday night (first full moon of November). They are beautiful. You can hold it in one hand. It's like a little boat.

A group of us went down to Saphan Taksin BTS stop, which is right on the river. From there we inched toward one of the waiting river boats that would take us on a 40-minute return run. At the turnaround, many people on the wide, low gunwhale, long keel motor launch sent their kratongs amid the roiling waters and other colourful watercraft, in the hope that they can appease the river goddess and earn better luck or wash the previous year's transgressions away.

Along the shore, you could see stunningly lit businesses, hotels and temples.So here we are, following our leader . . .

 

The crowds throng the riverside as helpers with long poles and small nets attached, lower the kratongs into the waters . . .

 

Wishful folks watch more kratongs float toward lucky destination . . .

Vessels jockey for position when loading and unloading passengers . . .

 

And here's what you've been waiting for, a closeup shot of a kratong, of which there are many unique and extravagant designs . . .

 

We're off to the launch site on the Chao Phraya . . .

 

More sightseers and celebrants take to the waters, to launch their dreams, which, if they're to be fulfilled, the kratongs must disappear from view with the candle still burning. Many hope their vessels reach the Gulf of Thailand for everything to come true.

 

Eels and fish can be bought and "freed" in the waters, again, in the hope of washing away transgressions and bringing good luck.

 

Some enterprising lads enter the filthy waters of the Chao Phraya to recover the coins often launched with the kratongs.

 

Kratongs float toward destiny in Bangkok city waters.

 

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It's off to Lao for a few days away from the Bangkok din. Expect reports.

Bangkok shopping: Starbucks and revered Erawan Shrine

The revered Erawan Hindu shrine is right in thick of downtown Bangkok, thick as in choking traffic and incense smoke. It became world famous when a  mentally ill Thai  attacked it with a hammer and destroyed it. Stories in The (Bangkok) Nation . . . and BBC Of course, it was rebuilt from broken pieces and reinforced. Yesterday, on Sunday, a bit of a holiday because of the Bangkok governor's (mayoral) election, worshippers thronged the shrine.

 

The shrine is located right in the crook of Amarin, a high-end consumer's paradise, and west of Chit Lom BTS Skytrain station, where the giant Central World department store sits on its haunches. (Have to say, I was impressed with the wide choice of quality stock and price at Central. There isn't anything like it in Toronto.) As you walk from Chit Lom, there is another Hindu deity, Amarindradhiraja. Then you pass by a Starbucks fronting Amarin.

A little west of the Amarin/Erawan, at the big Siam Square BTS stop, is several more money magnets, Siam Paragon and Siam Centre on the north side of the tracks, and Siam Square on the south side. The latter  is a huge hangout for the local university and school kids who can buy the latest outfits, music and sweet treats. And there's also two more Starbucks. So you can worship at ancient and modern altars.